See Cartagena and Leave

Well, I supposet it’s unavoidable: Cartagena.
Key words: colonial, tourist, hot, very pretty, gourmet food. Though less of the latter in my case. I did, however, eat the best meal of the trip (so far). Though originally a Peruvian delicacy, good ceviche is a beautiful thing wherever it’s eaten. The shrimp, squid and octopus ceviche portion ”la bomba” (the bomb, or the petrol station: Take your pick.) was a killer! Served at The Blue Lagoon, a hole in the wall cevicheria featuring pictures of the young Brooke Shields in the movie of the same name. Good things sometimes come in humble packages. The restaurant that is, not young Brooke.
Aaaand, right back to Cartagena.
The city is touted to be the pretties colonial town in South America. Other contestants are Cusco in Peru and some place in Brazil that I haven’t been to. Cusco’s main square is more impressive and there are still some pre-colonial buildings of the Inca standing, but Cartagena is by the sea, more colourful, much larger and enclosed by nearly perfectly preserved early 17th century walls. (Damned pirates such as Francis Drake kept ransacking the place).
These are the go-to place for a shot of the sun setting into the sea 
with the trendy and expensive skyscrapers and shopping malls of Bocagrande towering in the background.
Cartagena boasts street upon street of perfectly preserved colonial houses. 
All very colourful
And what would a street be without the ubiquitous flowering vines - some of which clearly are also hundreds of years old.
Even if they die, the house owners have a hard time cutting them down.
Then there are statues: both historically questionable, such as this Spanish priest consoling an African slave
and by Botero.
A few houses still need love and attention
but they are getting few and far between. Mostly the old buildings have been converted into boutique hotels, restaurants or the homes of the very wealthy.

To emphasize the Caribbean vibe, elderly Afro-Caribbean women dress in totally improbable ruffled dresses the colour of the Colombian flag and carry fruit baskets on their heads. Take a photo, pay the cash. No photo attached.
A lot of beauty is hidden from view in the beautiful inner courtyards, which can be tantalizingly glimpsed from the streets - usually always connected to accommodation out of my price range.
Indeed, the uneven distribution of good luck (aka wealth) is very prominent in this town, where Western tourists and well heeled Columbians lounge in trendy restaurants sipping Helsinki priced frappuccinos, while destitute people try to entice them to buy chewing gum, cheap jewellery, plastic toy-crocodiles with fish in their mouths, maracas and guitar sets... You name it and someone will be trying to sell it to you. Oftentimes these people are Venezuelans fleeing from the situation in their country with slim to no job opportunities in Colombia and families to feed. So far the Columbians I have met have seemed to be more tolerant towards these ”financial refugees” than most Finns have been of our refugees.
About three days of walking around the various old parts of town
Taking a peek at the new part
And dipping into a mud volcano was enough time in Cartagena for me. 

It really is very lovely, but seems stifled not just by the heat and tourists, but by its own awareness of its beauty. Maybe too many of the original Cartagenans have been pushed by rising property prices so far outside the old city, that this has left the centre feeling a little soulless and void. 
Anyway, I need to head for higher ground and some place more rough and ready. So Medellin here I come!

Comments

Ana said…
Medellin. A famous name. Stay alive.

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